RENDEZ-VOUS CULTURE

PAR MARGUERITE NATTER

L’INCONTOURNABLE HARRY’S BAR A OPERA

 

« Just tell the taxi driver: Sank Roo Doe Noo and get ready for the worst! »

Cet encadré que tout américain séjournant à Paris aura pu lire en 1924 dans le Herald Tribune est encore valable. Car la phrase permet à tout anglophone de se rendre au « 5 rue Daunou » près d’Opéra sans problème d’accent… C’est d’ailleurs ce que proclame James Bond au taxi lors de sa toute première visite à Paris qu’il relate dans From a view to a kill (Dangereusement Vôtre). Il raconte « That he had started one of the memorable evenings of his life, culminating in the loss, almost simultaneous, of his virginity and his notecase ».

[portfolio_slideshow id=83]

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Passer boire une bière chez Harry’s après le travail vous transporte dans le monde et le décor toujours en place des British qui ont le mal du pays. Parfois quelques parisiens. Parmi les boiseries en acajou et les fanions de common rooms à l’ancienne, une myriade de vieux whiskies (plus de 300 références), surtout le Macallan 1938. Il faut comprendre pourquoi il est encore possible, dans le pub écossais, de discerner cet esprit traditionnel qu’un des serveurs, tiré à quatre épingles, va venir verser dans votre cocktail bien dosé du piano-bar juste en-dessous.

Nous sommes en 1911, New York City, Tod Sloan le jockey y ouvre un bistro, le New York Bar. Mais la prohibition le conduit à en transplanter les boiseries à Paris, où l’alcool coule à flot. Il engage alors un barman écossais, Harry Mac Elhone (1890-1958), qui devient rapidement l’unique propriétaire du pub. Le légendaire Harry’s New York Bar est né et parvient à son but : devenir le spot des expatriés.

On y sert Hemingway (mais dans quel bar parisien ne s’est-il pas oublié), Scott et Zelda Fitzgerald, Chanel, Jack Dempsey, Rita Hayworth, Brendan Behan ou Antoine Blondin. On s’y perd en concours de boissons. Fernand Petiot, barman, entre dans la légende en battant le record des deux litres de bière avalés en 46 secondes et en ajoutant, pour la première fois, de la vodka à son jus de tomates (le fameux Bloody Mary)

Dès 1924, Harry Mac Elhone invente le « straw vote » 1 mois par an : ce vote de paille est conçu pour que les expatriés ne pouvant voter par correspondance puissent exprimer leur préférence entre les deux candidats. En 2008, Ballantine’s est partenaire du Harry’s et le client choisit entre deux cocktails associés aux deux candidats…Ce vote non officiel est quasiment toujours conforme au vrai résultat.

Devenu le QG des International Bar Flies (confrérie d’amateurs de cocktails), le Harry’s Bar, c’est aussi l’invention de grands cocktails, parmi lesquels :

  • Le White Lady (1919) : gin-triple sec-jus de citron vert
  • Le Bloody Mary (1921): jus de citron-tabasco-sauce worcester-sel et poivre-jus de tomate-vodka
  • Le Harry Pick Me UP (1924) : jus d’orange-Grand-Marnier-cognac-champagne
  • Le Blue Lagoon (1960) : vodka-curaçao-jus de pamplemousse

Peut-être à bientôt chez Harry’s !

 

Marguerite Natter

Tlj à partir de midi. Piano-bar tlj à partir de 22h.

 

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